Tuesday, April 05, 2005

Dynamic Duo

I recall the first time Charlie and I went over to Ted and Judy's house. It was a Sunday evening in the fall, probably about thirty years ago now. I remember we were picking up one of Ted's watercolors—one of his big abstract map paintings, I think—and Judy had made a pie—apple pie to be precise. The tender flaky crust surrounded apples that were tart and buttery with all the flavor of a fall harvest. Judy's pie was what happens to apples when they go to heaven. We suspected we were in the presence of a pastry goddess.

But she is not alone in culinary heaven; Ted is a geni of the kitchen, too. Together Ted and Judy are simply the best cooks I know. Indeed they are ambitious, accomplished and dauntless. I am repeatedly bowled over by the fantastic and memorable meals at chez Villa. Only Ted would buy a paella pan that could hold dinner for twenty-four, and then, over an open fire in his backyard, make a masterpiece of rice, seafood, and saffron, preceded by an array of hors d'oeuvres that would do any mere mortal proud, and make the whole evening seem casual for the crowd lucky enough to enjoy that delicious meal. Besides his knowledge of Spanish wines, Ted prides himself on making cooking look effortless. Indeed he and Judy both make it all look easy.

The Villas are adventuresome and fearless in the kitchen. One Christmas they baked a savory Italian Crostada in pastry for the pseudo family of us who have gathered annually at their house. For Ted's fortieth birthday, Judy made a surprise dinner for him, and hid the entire meal, including the pies, until we partygoers who had assembled in a nearby park could ring the doorbell and shout, "Surprise!" Not long ago, Ted and Judy organized dinner guests into cooking teams to assemble and cook an awesome array of Spanish tapas.

Judy's desserts are legendary, from her chocolate roly-poly, to her frozen raspberry pie, to her absolutely perfect lemon meringue pie. But her soups, salads and imaginative hors d'oeuvres are always delicious and frequently fresh from her garden.

Ted likes to brag about his dishes, but he has every right. "I make the best crab cakes," he proclaims. I love crab cakes, and I am tempted by them every time I see them on a menu. And, although the chef may have a delicious sauce or aioli on the side, I am always measuring the cakes themselves against Ted's. So far his are "the best." His short ribs are pretty good, too. And then there's his posole.

On Saturday night we were at Ted and Judy's for his "frogified" posole. His cross-cultural stew was humble and elegant at the same time. Leftover barbecued ham, some hominy, a little sherry and a handful of rosemary—heaven in a bowl. Carrying on with the French theme, Judy had made chocolate-filled cream puffs and chocolate dipped strawberries for dessert, and served them with her own limoncello.

Dinner at the Villa's is an occasion; I am filled with anticipation and excitement all day when we are going there. They are inspiring. I know my cooking has been inspired and encouraged by Ted and Judy's example. And I know when I am going to be cooking for them, I had better be ready to step up to the plate.